We might travel many places throughout our lives, but there are only a few journeys which leave a lasting impression on our minds. I also experienced such an unforgettable journey when I visited Agra- the city where Shah Jahan built the beautiful Taj Mahal for his wife Mumtaz Mahal. I was eager to see the seventh wonder of the world for the first time.

Early in the morning (approximately 8’o clock) we set out in a hired private car and a driver. I knew the journey would be long, but what I didn’t know was that it would be so pleasurable. The novel which I had kept along wasn’t even opened. After traveling for about an hour when finally the city areas vanished, I was elated at the beautiful landscape along the long winding roads. Mustard fields swaying in the wind, the widespread endless sky (something not visible in crowded, polluted Delhi) and tiny humble huts in the midst of the fields- this scene was straight from the Bollywood movies. Our car was speeding along the road and the rush of air in my ears was the best music I’ve had heard in years! The trees standing tall alongside the road seemed to witness our presence silently. We stopped in the way at a roadside dhaba (though going by the rates it didn’t seem to be one!), the menu was simple but the food was great.

It was a pastoral dream come true which ended when we reached the border of the city we were heading to.

After being stranded for about 45 minutes at the toll gates due to heavy traffic, we finally entered Agra. Although it was late noon, the sun was still hot (though it was December). We felt it more now (even in the car) in the busy crowded streets of Agra. It was hot and dusty, and we were roaming trying to find our way to the hotel where we had booked a room. I was a little startled but there was more to come. After haggling for our way for some time, we finally reached the hotel. It was about 4 in the evening. We rested for a while in our room which was nicely furnished- replete with archaic pieces and sceneries which seemed unreal. I peeped out of the back window hoping to see something like in that scenery, but all I saw was a dirty lane and rooftops.

At 5 we headed for Taj Mahal “darshan”. I, inquisitive and dreamy as ever, was already anticipating the magnificent aura of that wonderful monument. I had read and heard so much about the Taj Mahal (like every Indian) that I was already imagining a royal and majestic welcome. And that proved to be true (for some time), when we got down at the parking. There were no vehicles to be allowed in the near vicinity of the Taj. We were (actually all visitors) were to hire either a tonga (a majestic one driven by horses) or a mini auto kind of vehicle ( run by the Taj authorities) to get to the Taj. The roads near the taj were all clean, green and wide. It was twilight and beautiful yellow lamps alongside the driveway made it all the more lovely.

We hitched the auto ride ( much to my disappointment ) as the tonga ride was way too expensive and only the ‘firangis’ (all wrapped in Indian jaipuris and lucknowi kurtis) were hitching them. As we neared the monument, I was stunned to see the vicinity areas of the taj. They had an old Lucknow feel…fine…but apart from the culture and archaic look they were also crowded and not very neat. It was a busy market place, especially when we got out after the sight seeing from the backside. It reminded me of Chandni Chowk. Not surprising, since Chandni Chowk has been designed by Shah Jahan’s beloved daughter, Jahanara.

Oh and how can I forget the imploring guides outside the Taj. As it was already twilight by then, we had decided to do just a quick round of the monument and come again the next day. So we didn’t hire any guide that day.

Oh lest I forget, the Taj Mahal was really beautiful. I first looked at it in the silvery moonlight ( although it must have been 6 or 7, but it was winter) and the white marble seemed to shine vaguely in the light fog. Looking at it intently, desperately trying to create some magic or nostalgia in my heart, I was slowly steeping forward towards it when I collided with someone. I then looked around me to find the whole place crowded and packed. We finally climbed to the main Taj Mahal, there was still some light. We went inside, the voices were echoing and it was really dark with only a bulb to illuminate the area. We soon came out and sat on the cold floor of the open balcony like area. Despite the crowd there was calm here. We could see the Yamuna river from across the distance lined by trees. After enjoying some calm moments in the breeze, we got up to leave (as visiting hours are only upto maybe 7 or 8o’clock). Returning back, I looked at the Taj, absorbing the image of this huge wonder of carved marble embracing the tomb of Shah Jahan’s wife.

The next day we again went to the place to see it in daylight, comprehend it better, and to click pictures. I didn’t know that there are remnants of a mosque in the compound of the Taj Mahal. Our guide told us that the Taj Mahal is slightly slanted and we spent a great deal of time in finding it out, involving other tourists too, but I still don’t know whether it is or not.

Nevertheless, our trip to the Taj was over and we came to our hotel to rest before we set out to explore the rest of the city. By the way, the food at our hotel was bland, so we ate our meals at the city’s restaurants where they served typical north Indian cuisine replete with all the spices.

We explored the famous Cantt market of Agra, it was like any other metropolitan market ( the only difference was that it was a lot cheaper). The popular chaat corner of the place is a must try. Located at a corner of a narrow lane, it was so crowded (by locals as well as tourists) that we had to wait half an hour for our plates of chaat and alloo tikki.

We also got loads of a sweet called “panchi petha” (a type of pumpkin delicacy) packed from the equally famous shop by the same name. Panchi petha is supposed to be a speciality of agra. And available in various flavours and colours, it’s quite delicious.

Just a little distance from the main city of Agra (a 2 hour drive) is the famous Fatehpur Sikri, another tourist destination. There we saw the ‘Buland Darwaza’, which true to its name was really huge and sturdy. We also visited the dargah of saint ‘Salim Chishti’, a beautiful and sacred place, with its mesmerizing atmosphere filled with Sufi prayers and aromas of dhoop and what seemed like incense sticks.

The most interesting part of this place was the palace where Mughal emperor Akbar is supposed to have resided. Stretched across a wide area, it is neatly divided into chambers and lawns. There is the seat where Tansen used to sing surrounded by water from all sides. There are separate chambers for Akbar’s wives, Jodhabai and Mariam. Hiring a guide here would be of utmost utility as the place has a lot of stories to tell.

While returning, we did some shopping and in the way we visited a huge jain temple which was under construction, which had massive structures of engravings on the walls.

Our trip was nearing the end, but before that we were to stop at many places on our way back. Among them were many places in Delhi, namely the garden of five senses, Qutub Minar. But to describe them, it would take another travelogue. So I end this trip to Agra here itself. I wouldn’t say it was the most fascinating trip ever, but nevertheless it was a memorable experience.

Nishi Jain

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[Image courtesy: http://www.flickr.com/photos/blondavenger/7783999/